Granted, Berlin may well be the capital of the country, but to say the city is centralised in design is way off the mark. One of the best parts of living – and staying – in the city is that there will always be something new to discover, and the sense of real geographical distinction as you move from place to place. The idea of the kiez is key to this. Kiez are like little areas, often consisting of around three or four streets that almost function like a tiny village, each with it’s own unique feel and character.
In terms of navigating Berlin, kiez exploration is best done by foot, ambling up, down and around, browsing in the shops, having a pit stop or two in the cafés and soaking up the atmosphere of the place. One of the easiest kiez to find is definitely Bergmannkiez – located towards the top of Kreuzberg near Mehringdamm and Gneisenaustraße and centred around the bustling Bergmannstraße. The vibe here is distinctly upmarket bohemian, with a smattering of jumble stores and antiques in and amongst smaller boutiques. There is plenty for all ages and dispositions, but look out for Colours, the vintage market where the clothes come by the kilo; make sure you stop in at Knofi for their gözleme and pastes; and if you want something more hearty, schnitzels don’t come much larger or delicious than at Austria. The renovated Marheineke Markthalle is the ultimate deli, stocking a great range of sweet and savoury treats and the playground next to it is great for younger visitors. And that venerable Berlin institution, the English Theatre Berlin is just a few blocks away on Fidicinstraße. The highlight though – and one of the best views in this comparatively flat city – lies at the top of Viktoriapark. If it’s a nice day, gently make your way up past the man-made waterfall in the centre of the park, and once you hit the top, you’ll find a vista that offers a new look over the southerly and central parts of the city.
Colours Kleidermarkt
Bergmannstraße 102
10961 Berlin-Kreuzberg
T: 030 – 694 33 48,
Open Monday-Friday, 11am – 7pm; Saturday 12pm – 7pm
Knofi
Bergmannstraße 11
10961 Berlin
T: 030 - 695 64 359,
Open daily 7am – 12am
Austria
Bergmannstraße 30 / Ecke Heimstraße
10961 Berlin
T: 030-694 44 40
Open daily from 6pm – (kitchen closes at 11pm)
English Theatre Berlin
Fidicinstraße 40,
10965 Berlin
T: 030 6935692
Tickets and show times available online